Dynamat Xtreme Sound Deadening Car Insulation Installer Pack – Noise Dampening for Floor, Doors, Panels, Hood or Trunk – Easy Self Adhesive Install – Made in USA – 12 18”x32” Sheets, 48 sq ft Total

I recently purchased the Dynamat 10455 18" x 32" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener Xtreme Bulk Pack, which includes 9 sheets in black, and I couldn't be happier with the results. First and foremost, the sound deadening capabilities of this product are exceptional. I used it to soundproof my car's interior, and the difference is night and day. Road noise, engine vibrations, and rattles have all been significantly reduced. The improvement in cabin acoustics is noticeable, making for a quieter and more comfortable driving experience. The self-adhesive backing on these sheets is a game-changer. It made installation a breeze. Simply peel and stick, and the sheets adhere firmly to the desired surface. The flexibility of the material allowed me to apply it to various contours and shapes within my vehicle, ensuring comprehensive coverage. The thickness of 0.067" is perfect for sound deadening without adding too much bulk. It effectively absorbs and dampens vibrations without taking up precious interior space. In terms of build quality, Dynamat is known for its durability, and these sheets are no exception. They feel solid and are clearly designed to last, even in challenging automotive environments. While this product is on the pricier side, the results are well worth the investment. If you're looking to enhance your car's audio quality, reduce road noise, and create a more serene driving environment, the Dynamat 10455 Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener Xtreme Bulk Pack is a highly effective and quality solution. I highly recommend it to anyone looking to upgrade their vehicle's soundproofing.

Overall, I am very satisfied with Dynamat Extreme. My attempt was to quite the road noise in my Jeep Wrangler with 39” mud tires. After many wheeling trips having to wear hearing protection (especially driving back from Moab to the east coast) and trying to save what little hearing I have left, I decided to try Dynamat and reinstall the carpeting and see if the dB level goes down significantly, maybe even enough to be able to hear the radio and CB while moving at highway speeds. So far, I am impressed with the results. They are not spectacular but there was a lot of noise to knock down. For Jeep owners who might be considering buying Dynamat, here is what I did as an example. I pulled the floor mats and seats then installed it from the firewall back to the rear gate. I overlapped a bit on the firewall, tunnel, front floor boards, and rear fender wells, and also cut out around the drain plugs and taped them off. I reinstalled the factory carpet, front to rear, and will just deal with pulling it and spraying out the mud and dirt once in a while. I reinstalled the factory plastic pieces near the back of the gate (2015 Jeep) but I used a lot of scrap pieces to stick to the backside of the plastic to deaden the hollow, cheap sound. This actually worked really well! I have MOPAR half doors which sound pretty hollow, especially with the factory plastic interior pieces. I disassembled the doors and lined as much as I could on the outer skin of the door, then stuffed a lot of Pelican case pick and pull foam that I cut to fit snuggly inside the door, especially across the “safety bracing” inside the center of the door. After that, I lined the rest of the exposed metal areas of the inner door skin and also stuck the scrap pieces to the plastic interior piece, specifically around the handle area and in the lower section of the rear door panels (you’ll see what I mean when you disassemble the door). All of this on the doors made a dramatic change in the door clunkiness and made another significant change in the road noise level. Additionally, when I close the doors now it sounds way smoother and will make you question whether you closed it hard enough to latch shut. Knocking on the outside of the doors sounds much more dense. For a four door JK, I used two nine packs of 18”x32” Dynamat and two rolls of tape. I ran out of tape and used aluminum tape that one would use on an HVAC unit, I just cut the two-inch tape into one-inch wide strips to finish the job. As I mentioned earlier, I did overlap a little, but not very much so I would definitely suggest two boxes for a four door Jeep. As for the radio quality improvement (taking into consideration the NON-Alpine stereo and soft upper half doors) the stereo sounds surprisingly better while parked. The volume at 20 is clearer and louder than it was at 28 before. On the road doing 60 mph, I can actually hear the radio clearly at 18 and it sounds good at 22-24. Before installing the Dynamat, the volume at 22-24 was overpowered by the tire, wind, and road noise. We are going on a wheeling trip this weekend, so I am hoping that I will be able to hear my CB on the highway! In summary, I am satisfied with the results for my purpose. I have no doubt that someone with a normal car who is looking to quite road noise and improve stereo sound would be especially satisfied and impressed with the change.

As others has said, I bought to improve sound and road/car noise for my '01 Miata. Got the 9 pack here on Amazon and installed last night. I recently upgraded my stock radio with a new head unit, Alpines in the doors and a Bazooka in the trunk. 450 total watts total. Love the improvement... but with a roadster, noise is a killer, so I broke down after much research and bought the Dynamat pack. So I started on the trunk and lid, fully lined single layer, did the inside rear quarter panels too. Could immediately notice the trunk sounded tighter, less echo. Took 2 hours of effort, but I had to use 5 sheets (18x32) and used a lot more than I thought for such a small trunk. Moved on to the interior with what was left. Pulled passenger seat, carpet and tranny tunnel and used 3 more sheets on floor and behind seat. I figured at this point, doing each area fully and getting more product to finish was wiser than trying to conserve and not getting everything done. Well after 4 hours, I ran out, without getting doors or driver's side, but after a couple test drives am pretty pleased with the results! Can only imagine the improvement when my next pack arrives to finish what's left. Will probably do doors double layer, maybe under the hood if I have enough left. Trunk is very tight, quiet on the outside and no vibrations Everything you've probably read is exactly correct. Clean first, roll on tight, seal well. I used the roller and a small rubber mallet to press and seal, the mallet was a big help, with the long handle to reach tight spots and really press down the material. Messy, sharp and sweaty work.. all true. But the results are well worth it. My car is considerably quieter, the music tighter, even without it all completed. All told, a couple hundred will go into the effort, about 8 or so hours to complete. This product delivers what it says, I highly recommend it! Be sure and get enough when you order, it will probably take more than you think, you'll find areas you hadn't thought of to cover, sometimes you'll want to double it up. I'll be at nearly 700-800 sq ft of product on a small Miata, a truck or big SUV will surely take much more.

This is the BEST product to use for your HOT ROD or KUSTOM or MUSCLE CAR---Dynamat keeps your car cool and nice and quiet.This is the only mat that I will use on my cars.

I did quite a bit of research before deciding on Dynamat. There are some cheaper competitors that people swear are just as good and they may be, but I just don't trust them as much. If you do your research you will even see that some people chose to use roofing material that you can buy at Home Depot. Someone would have to be OUT OF THEIR MIND to put $20 worth of roofing tar into a $20,000+ vehicle. The only negative thing people have to say about Dynamat is that it is priced high, but if you buy the bulk packs on Amazon you will save yourself a ton of money and is actually a pretty cost effective solution for DIY work. I have looked around and Amazon has the best price anywhere. Main competitors and my impressions of them. I have not purchased or used these product, but this is an idea of why I chose Dynamat over them. I am not a car audio professional by any means. This is the first time I used deadening on my car and I am writing this to help anyone else who is thinking of doing this. 1) RAAMAudio RAAMmat + Ensolite Foam - Most cost effective "legitimate" option. 2) Sound Deadener Showdown - "CDL Tiles" + Mass Loaded Vinyl. SDS would be an interesting choice. If you look through forums you will see some people who really like this stuff, but I found the website to be confusing and I could not truly make an informed decision one way or another. 3)Fatmat: Cheapest of all automotive dampeners, but one Google search of "fatmat smell" is all you need to know. Some say it smells awful and some don't, but there is no chance I risk it. This stuff is super cheap, does not deaden as well as competitors and stinks. I would use home depot roofing material before this product. Move on. And to the "REAL" competitor. 4) Second Skin Audio- Damplifier Pro + Closed Cell Foam (CCF)- Although I decided on dynamat, based on reviews and forum comments, I think that Second Skin Audios product line may in fact be superior to Dynamat, but I decided against it for a few reasons. Damplifier Pro is a good bit heavier than Dynamat extreme. For most, this isnt going to make a huge difference, but I am lining a performance car with more emphasis on performance than sound. I want an improved sound system, but if the increase in weight is only going to improve things very minimally it is just not worth it to me. A lot of people say that Dynamat is the most expensive, but a 36 sq. foot pack of Damplifier pro costs $204+ shipping. They do have some coupons occasionally, but it is more expensive. The fact is Dynamat is proven to work and is trusted by professionals. I do not think you can go wrong with Dynamat because the only bad thing people have to say about it is that the price is high which is a bit of a myth. If you drive a big truck or SUV, want the absolute best sound and aren't as concerned with weight, I would think about the 80sq foot Damplifier Pro shop pack and CCF foam. I turned my trunk into a enclosure with Dynamat Xtreme. I lined just about every surface, doubling up in a few critical areas and was able to line my trunk with this kit. If you want to really go out and line an entire car, you will need 100 sq ft+ of this stuff. If you are doing the trunk and doors like me, you'll need 50-80 sq feet depending on whether or not you plan to cover the entire door. I would use the bulk kit for anything but the doors. You can surely use the Dynamat in the bulk kit on the doors, but the door kit strips 12" x 36" and make for a cleaner install because they will run the full length of any door. It would not be the end of the world to have extra, but I would try to make a good estimate of how much you will need so that you arent leftover with a whole box of this stuff. One final recommendation as I try to unload all of the information I have learned. Dynamat claims that you do not need a heat gun to install Dynamat Extreme. That may be true, but after using a heat gun to put the finishing touches on the trunk, I would have to strongly recommend using a heat gun for trouble areas and difficult corners. I was able to put the Dynamat down so much flatter and nicer by heating it up a bit and rolling it down. it especially helps to heat corners and tight spots where you cannot get the roller in, because it makes it easier to mash the Dynamat down with your fingers. I am not going to use the heat gun on the doors however, as I believe that there are more heat sensitive components in there and do not want to chance it Dynamat claims it is not a necessity. I plan on using Dynaliner on top of the Dynamat in the doors (and trunk I think) as well as by itself in a few areas. I really hope this helps someone. If you have anything to say about my opinions, or would just like to comment on what I have done, please let me know.

It's amazing how much a difference this makes on the large unsupported sheetmetal panels on my van. There's a noticeable difference in the noise when rapping on a panel with a bare fist; it turns a high pitched knock to a low pitched thunk. I have a Ford e350 cargo van, with a 4x4 conversion, and I'm working on putting insulation in it so I can use it as a camping van. My previous van had foil-backed jute insulation, backed by some reflectix bubble wrap. For my new van, I'm starting out with dynamat, then the jute, and then the reflectix. Installation has been a big learning curve for me. * At the beginning of the process, I was doing all of my cuts with a tape measure, and a straight edge. But over time, I found that I can put a piece of the dynamat over the panel I want to line, and then I can use the back of my razor blade to trace the contour of the panel than I want to line, which will leave a divet in the dynamat. Then I can use the sharp edge of the razor to cut the outline of the divet I just traced. This gives very nice panel-shaped pieces of dynamat. * Keep the box it comes in! There's a large flat piece of card board in there, that's the same size as the dynamat. This makes a perfect backing for your cuts. * In my case, since I was working on a van, I was able to leave the box flat in the back of the van, and do all of my cuts there. Having a good large work table is key to doing this comfortably. * I was unsure as to whether I should overlap the pieces, or try to butt them together. I contacted dynamat, and they said that either work. At the beginning of my project, I had been trying to butt the pieces together, but found that there were always gaps which looked bad. Since the, I've been doing overlaps, which I find to look nicer. * When covering a panel that has holes for trim clips or seat bolts, etc, just install the dynamat normally, then you can cut out a small piece where the hole needs to be. If you cut the piece out shortly after laying down the dynamat, it peels up fine. At the beginning of my project, I was trying to pre-cut the holes in the dynamat before installing it, but ended up having a hard time getting it to line up exactly. Cutting out the hole afterwards is much easier. If you're worried about not being able to find it, because it's a small flush hole, then put something like a penny or dime over the hole. You'll be able to see the shape of the coin through the dynamat. * The more contoured the surface, the smaller pieces of mat that you should be using. In my van, the floor has a small area with a few dozen half-inch-wide ribs, and it's hard to get the mat to follow the shape if you use a large piece. And you don't want the air gaps in there, or you'll get rust, and it will supposedly not work as well. Multiple small pieces of mat, perhaps big enough to cover 2-3 ridges at a time, are much easier to manage. * Use the rubber roller to get the mat to stick down. It will save your knuckles versus doing it by hand. I found that I use the dynamat roller mostly, though I also have a j-handle roller with a longer handle -- that unit is less good in tight spaces, but the j-hook does let it edge better, and the longer handle is nicer when doing the roof. * Buy some bandaids -- when you're doing hard-to-get places, you're going to end up with bloody knuckles and such. The insides of the doors have been my hardest area so far.

Perfect amount for small suv. Easy to install once panels are off. Great product.

Herculiner - HCL1B8 - Brush-on Bed Liner Kit After deciding I would like to fix up and keep a 91 pathfinder around for a few years. I decided I was going to take out the 20 year old carpet. I was originally only going to use Herculiner, do it yourself bedliner (I choose Herculiner because of so many positive reviews). After many days prep; I removed all the factory sound proofing tar with a hammer and chisel, then sanded with a drill and wire brush untill all was clean metal. I applied two coats of Herculiner. It looked great and was solid. I decided I wanted a slightly thicker floor. So I purchased two bulk packs of Dynamat and laid a layer. It went on so easy and looked so nice I decided I should do two layers. I bought another two bulk packs of Dynamat and laid my second layer down. I then applied a final two coats of Herculiner. It looked great. I decided to go the extra mile and do a coat of optional Herculiner UV protection. I used a quart and a half. It was going on a purple gray and I assumed it would dry black and be unnoticeable. It did not. It looked horrible. It had not changed to black and had separated in areas and bubbled as well. I called Herculiner and told them my results. They were great, they said it sounded like I had got two from a bad batch that had gotten out. They offered right away to mail me some replacement bottles. They thought I should be OK if I sanded down the bad UV protection and reapplied a coat or two of Herculiner. So I picked up another Herculiner kit from AutoZone and went to work that day. I sanded for about five minutes and realized that the UV protection was not going to just sand off. So I spent about two hours sanding all the surfice with 80grit and cleaning up the sand it produced. I then applied another two coats of Herculiner. It looked real sad. I called Herculiner again and this time I sent them some pictures of how the bad UV protection turned out after sanding and two more coats of Herculiner. If I had no other options I might of been able to sand all the UV protection off. It would have took about 40 hours, I think though. I decided the only way I would have results I'm happy with was to apply another layer of Dynamat and then two more coats of Herculiner. So I ordered two more box's of Dynamat and applied one more layer. I then applied my last two coats of Herculiner. And it looks great again. I now know why Dynamat and Herculiner are the brands brought up the most online (forums). These products worked great together and are of the highest quality. Hercliner is sending me out some replacement UV protection that is not from a bad batch,( it should be a solid black, not purple). I will wait a year and if any of the floor fades apply some then.