Hand Rope Chain Saw - 48" pocket chainsaw directly connected to 66 ft ropes to form high tree limb rope chainsaw for camping survival and tree pruning

Like with most tools, good technique is critical to how well the tool functions, particularly with non-power tools like this high limb rope chainsaw. If you've been reading reviews you've surely noticed that most negative reviews mention chain becoming stuck. This is due to bad technique using the saw. If you just throw a rope over a branch and stand underneath (hopefully of to the side a bit) this chainsaw will get stuck. It's pretty much guaranteed. You are sawing from the top but cut is the same shape as the top of the branch, an inverted "U" shape. As you cut the "U" gets narrower as you cut through the branch when the weight of the branch starts to open at the top it squeezes towards the bottom and causes the chain to get stuck. The correct technique requires 2 people standing way out to the sides of the branch. If you don't have another person to help you can do what did. I used spiral stakes which can be put in to the ground using cordless drill/driver (see photos). Since I already made myself a monkey's fist using a 1/2 lead weight (see photos) I used this to throw a messenger line over the branch. I used 1.8mm UHMWPE line for the messenger line. It's 550 lbs test, very slippery, and light weight. I was able to throw it over a branch 30' up 2nd try. I missed the first try because I didn't unspooled enough line. Anyway, I used the messenger line to pull up the straps with the chainsaw section in-between. I used 750 lbs test paracord with double bungee cords between the strap and the paracord. Walked it out away from the branch a good ways (more than 50ft) where I drilled the screw stake into the ground (see photo) I fastened the paracord to the loop with a bowline so I could use the loop to attach a Nitize cam clip. This allows for easy adjustment of the bungee tension. You could use a cam tie down strap or a lever adjustable strap. You could probably use a simple tent guyline adjuster knot as well. I used a second screw stake to make sure when I tightened the bungee tension I wouldn't pull the chain right off the branch. I did make a starter cut using the incorrect technique, standing under the branch, because I wanted my cut about a foot from the tree trunk. This made sure the chain didn't slide down the branch to the trunk, I learned this the hard way. Now I have the chain on a starter cut a foot or so from the trunk straps on both sides, one side with bungee adjusted tight ( with the chain mostly on the opposite side of the branch). I unattached the strap from the non-bungee side, walked to roughly opposite the staked bungee side and start pulling and releasing the strap. The bungee acts like a second person keeping tension on the chainsaw chain and returning it so it can be pulled again. It cuts both ways. How much effort this takes depends on your degree of patience and how sharp the chain is. As long as your spacing is wide enough the chain doesn't get stuck. I had to adjust the tension on the bungee several times because the branch was quite thick, 11" diameter oak. You need to use fairly long bungee because they stretch about 50%. They need to be heavy duty because you want about 2-3 ft at least of movement of the chain. I used 3', 3/8" bungee cords. Happened to work great. If you want to make your own I highly suggest getting marine bungee. I use bungee to hold a tarp over my skiff and they had to be replaced every year. I finally made my own using marine bungee it's been about 8 years now and none have failed. I use them to tension a tarp lean-to roof. I've on my 3rd tarp none of the marine bungees have failed. If this technique worked on 11" oak 30ft up in sure it will work on smaller stuff better. Obviously a helper will be much easier. On this particular model of high limb rope chainsawthere are several differences I really like. They use nylon strap with cam cleats to attach to chain instead of rope. There are strap handles with cam cleats. These make length adjustments really easy. I think the straps help keep chain aligned better when starting the cut. The straps are long as well. If I had had a helper the straps would have been long enough to cut this branch without needing additional length.

We have a dying oak tree in the yard. At full height no matter which way I fell it, it would land in an area that would crush something. I was quoted $1000 just to cut the two middle vertical branches. That's without cleanup or stump grinding. Ridiculous! I used a bow and shot thick fishing line where I wanted the strap to go. This worked amazingly well. The bow with arrows cost me $11 at Goodwill by the way. Using two people to saw the limbs keeps it from pinching. My wife, I have been told, is very tired. My suggestion is to cut for 5 minutes take a 5 minute break and cycle like that. It seems much easier that way. I did end up buying two of these because my first one got stuck. I got a little too greedy and pulled it over a different limb where it got wedged in a fork. I suggest cutting the fishing line and trying again if you go over a lot of branches by accident. Earlier I made it sound like a lot of work, but in the picture you can see that the limbs we were working on were pretty thick. Plus it's been in the 90°s. I'll also add that we are both in our 50s. This chain produces a lot of shaving with every pull. The product is strong and well made. We spent $60; some time; and some sweat, and saved us $940. To me that is a good deal. If you're curious we cut down 8 large limbs from this oak, and several smaller limbs when they were in the way. I would definitely recommend this product. You'll put in some work, but it wasn't that bad.

This little chain saw is a wonderful idea in most situations. It has cutters on both sides, which is great if you have to use a throw-rope to get to high branch and have no control over which side it lands on. This eliminates the problem of having to try to flip it over. Once yo get it in position, the saw works almost effortlessly, as the cutting teeth will quickly grab the wood and chisel out a rut that keeps it from rolling. If the branch or limb is not more than 5or 6 inches thick, it cuts through it with very little resistance. If you're trying the cut through a bigger limb, you apparently have zero understanding of basic physics and shouldn't be standing directly under a limb you are trying to remove that is heavy enough to kill you when it falls on you. If you are one of those people who cannot comprehend cause and effect,don't buy this manual chainsaw. I like mine and used it to clear out a lot of excess tree branches and limbs in my back yard. The only problem I had with it was in order to reach the higher branches, you have to use a throw rode to loop over that branch, then afix the handles to that to hoist it up. This works to make an 'extension' on the saw to accommodate the extra height.I'm almost 70 and just don't have the "ooomph" to throw the weighted rope that high over my head. So I had to ask a neighborhood teenager to do that part for me. This brought me to the second reason not to give 5 stars...he thought it was so cool, that he came back later and stole it. But I guess that might be considered a high rating too! Lol. Buy it, it's a worthwhile tool.

Funciona de maravilla!

Best thing works awesome I use it in the trails while driving around in my UTV many trees fall across and this cuts through it way quicker than my bucksaw and takes up minimal space